Now that the days are getting colder, it is time to start preparing to
dig up your plants. Some growers prefer to leave the tubers in the ground, and
cover them with a mulch or the excess foliage that has been removed. They then dig
them up later in the year when they have started to sprout, split them up, and replant.
They can be left for 2-3 years without digging, but after this time the clumps are
much bigger and much harder to dig up. Once they have started to slow down or stop
producing flowers you can begin. Some years an early frost may do this for you to
some extent. If the seed heads you wish to save have not been harvested yet,
do so now and store them upright in a dry place till they are totally dried
out. Cut back your plants to about 45cm - 60cm, and move the name tag down
to the main stem a few inches above soil level, if not already done. If some of
the stems remaining are hollow and showing signs of holding water, pierce the
stem fairly low down with a sharp knife, and let the water drain away. It also
pays to cover these hollow stems with cling wrap or foil to prevent a build up
of water should it rain. It also gives a bit of protection should a frost strike
before they are finally dug up. Some growers stack the excess foliage which has
been removed in the cut back, over these stems for protection.
Leave for a week or two, and then do the final cut back to 25cm - 30cm.
Leaving a stem of this length helps in the final stages of digging up and
moving to a storage area. After a few days you can then commence to dig up
your plants. Make your initial cut with a spade about a foot away from the
main stem and continue right around the plant, this severs all the feeder roots
and makes it easier to then dig up the clump. A spade is the best tool to use
for this job, as it makes a clean cut if you should accidently strike a tuber.
This heals quite quickly, whereas if you use a garden fork and accidentally pierce
a tuber, rot can quickly set in and ruin the whole clump, if it spreads. Leave the
tuber clumps where they are for one or two hours to harden up a bit, and then hose
all the excess soil off them, and leave them to dry out in a warm sunny place if
possible. There are many and varied methods of storage, and a lot depends on the
amount of space the individual grower has available.
This will be more fully covered in the June Diary notes.
